意象意象灵魂说

想要知谈哪种气泡水最佳喝？《经济学东谈主》的专栏作家深刻布鲁克林苏吊水节，从主打“唯独口味就是无味”的新锐品牌Seltzie，到以大气泡和皑皑口感著称的Topo Chico，再到欧洲邃密无比之选Badoit和圣培露，伸开了一场气泡满满的品鉴之旅。气泡水为何风靡环球？谁才是实在的王者？谜底大要就藏在那一口“刺痛感”里。读完这篇，你不仅会想打嗝，更会想坐窝开一瓶。

译文为原创，仅供个东谈主学习使用

The Economist ｜World in a dish

经济学东谈主｜盘中叶界

Which sparkling water is the best?

哪种气泡水最佳喝？

Diving into the frothy world of bubbly

深刻气泡翻滚的奇妙寰宇

安杰洛·罗法罗钟爱“无味”。他也但愿你能爱上“无味”。这位身材瘦小、髯毛整都的男东谈主，在近期布鲁克林苏吊水节上，像打了鸡血的小猎犬雷同充满劲头，不休地向路东谈主递上小纸杯。“看到了吗？你终于尝到了‘无味’！”罗法罗先生吹嘘我方“花了六个月筹划气泡”。后果即是这款口感皑皑、气泡和顺的新品。

有东谈主大要会将这款无味苏吊水——名为 Seltzie，标语是“唯独的口味：无”——视为气泡水行业出现泡沫的征兆。而在其两侧的展位上，破钞者不错试吃到柑橘姜、百香果、青柠薄荷、黑莓黄瓜和覆盆子等风范的气泡水，沿路来自 Topo Chico——一个附庸于厚味可乐公司的热点墨西哥品牌。

情随事迁，悉数气泡水都在受益。跟着乙醇破钞量下落，气泡水比以往任何技艺都更受宽饶。凭据筹划公司 Mintel 的数据，2025 年好意思国的销售额约为 64 亿好意思元，比 2019 年增长了 70%。

Johann Schweppe被称为“盲从气泡的男东谈主”

英国化学家约瑟夫·普里斯特利被合计在 1767 年通过向水中充入二氧化碳，创造了东谈主造气泡水。约莫 15 年后，瑞士科学家约翰·史威佩（Johann Schweppe）——他的名字悉数格体式对任何喜欢者来说都不生疏——开发了一家公司，米兰体育官网运行大鸿沟坐褥。19 世纪，现场制作碳酸饮料的苏吊水机运行培植。在好意思国，气泡水尤其受到犹太侨民的宽饶，大要因为它是曼哈顿下东区能得到的最干净的水。它被称为“seltzer”，得名于一个以气泡水驰名的德国小镇。（如今，滚球app中国官网下载入口好多东谈主将“sparkling water”和“seltzer”混用。）

破钞者的聘用多到令东谈主眼花头晕。关于欧洲的邃密无比东谈主士（或附庸细致者），有 Badoit 或圣培露的精细气泡。格鲁吉亚东谈主则对 Borjomi 声称的疗愈功效有目共赏，这是一种自然带气的气泡水，带有硫磺气息和浓重的矿物滋味，不喜欢的东谈主则将其比作带泡的唾液。

气泡水的需求如斯蓬勃，以致于连锁超市也推出了自家品牌的调味气泡水。想要减少碳酸软饮料摄入的东谈主不错聘用略带果味的 Spindrift 或 La Croix。好意思食家与得克萨斯东谈主——这两个群体并非老是判若锐利——则钟爱 Topo Chico 那种大气、敏锐的气泡和皑皑的口感，最近这款水还出现了短少。（正如音乐节上一件 T 恤上炫耀地写谈：“好的苏吊水就该有刺痛感。”如若你曾因喝得太快而被呛到，就会赫然这句话的含义。）

那么，哪种最佳呢？有些东谈主偏疼 Badoit 那样气泡如低语般精细，但这似乎浪掷了体验。Topo Chico 莫得矿物余味，气泡冲击力都备，与辛辣食品号称绝配，能化解浓重，还能安抚肠胃。破钞者们应该为此欣慰。然后，打个嗝。◾

ANGELO ROEFARO loves nothing. He wants you to love nothing， too. A small， trim man with a neat beard， he manned his stall at the recent Brooklyn SeltzerFest with the manic energy of a caffeinated terrier， thrusting little paper cups at passersby. “See? You finally taste nothing!” Mr Roefaro boasts that he spent “six months researching bubbles”. The result is cleantasting and only lightly fizzy.

Some may see the launch of a new unflavoured seltzer—Seltzie， with the slogan， “only one flavour: none”—as a sign of a bubble in the sparkling-water business. At the stalls on either side， consumers could sample tangerine-ginger， passionfruit， lime-mint， blackberry-cucumber and raspberry， all produced by Topo Chico， a popular Mexican brand owned by Coca-Cola.

A rising tide is lifting all fizzy waters. With alcohol consumption declining， sparkling water is more popular than ever. Sales of it in America were around $6.4bn in 2025， up 70% from 2019， according to Mintel， a research firm.

Joseph Priestley， an English chemist， is credited with creating artificially sparkling water in 1767 by infusing it with carbon dioxide. Some 15 years later Johann Schweppe， a Swiss scientist whose name in possessive form should be familiar to any enthusiast， started a company to produce it at scale. Soda fountains， which make carbonated drinks on site， spread in the 19th century. In America sparkling water proved especially popular among Jewish immigrants， perhaps because it was the cleanest water available on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. It was known as “seltzer”， after a German town famous for its sparkling water. (Today many use sparkling water and seltzer interchangeably.)

Consumers are spoiled for choice. For European sophisticates (or wannabes)， there are the delicate bubbles of Badoit or San Pellegrino. Georgians rave about the putative healing properties of Borjomi， a naturally sparkling water with a sulphurous scent and heavy mineral flavour that detractors compare to fizzy saliva.

So buoyant is demand for sparkling water that even supermarket chains have their own lines of the flavoured sort. People trying to cut back on fizzy drinks can choose lightly fruity Spindrift or La Croix. Gourmets and Texans—not always separate categories— love the large， sharp bubbles and clean taste of Topo Chico， which has recently experienced a shortage. (As one Tshirt at the festival boasted， “Good seltzer should hurt.” You will understand if you have ever guzzled one too quickly.)

So which is the best? Some people prefer a Badoitesque whisper of bubbles， but that seems an experiential waste. Topo Chico米兰体育官网， with its lack of mineral aftertaste and bubbles that pack a punch， pairs perfectly with spicy food， cuts through richness and settles the stomach. Consumers should cheer. And then burp.